LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, December 31

What to do with your old Christmas tree?  Best Practices

Chipping and shredding discarded Christmas trees is a best practice.

Christmas is winding down. After enjoying a live, cut Christmas Tree (and supporting GeorgiaChristmasTreeGrowers.org) there is the challenge of disposal. 

CrabappleLandscapExperts maintain a large green recycling program to turn trimmings and yard waste from the properties we manage into rich brown compost that can be added to flower beds or used as a nutritious organic mulch. Read more about how Crabapple LandscapExperts upcycle green material. 

Find a Christmas tree recycling program in your municipality and contribute to the solution. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, December 24

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Watering Tools Needed

Hose – 5/8 inch, non-kink, rubber hose

Water-Breaker Nozzle -- nozzle produces a gentle flow like a shower for deep hand-watering of roots, particularly excellent for keeping transplanted material moist

Water Wand -- extends reach

Sprinkler – oscillating sprinkler selected to cover required area, adjustable left, right, center or overall (not to be used during heat of the day) 

Timer – reliable timer to shut off sprinkler after a designated time period. Timers range in sophistication from simple and inexpensive wind-up versions, to battery-operated computer controlled

(See your Crabapple Rep to discuss an: automated in-ground watering system)

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, December 17

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Tools Needed to Move Plants, Soil, Mulch, Supplies

Wheelbarrow with Solid Tire -- single wheel makes maneuvering easy, solid tire never goes flat and reduces repair

XL Double-wheeled Barrow -- for hauling lightweight but bulki materials such as straw, pinestraw, mulch

Garden Cart -- 4-wheeled cart for hauling heavy statuary, equipment

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, December 10

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Pruning Tools Needed

Bypass Hand Pruners – fine pruning, removal of crossing branches, maintains graceful shape of the plant

Ratchet Lopping Shears – 2-handed pruners for thicker stems and branches, ratchet provides extra power to get through 2-inch branches

Pruning Saw – cutting through small limbs

Pole Pruner – reaching branches high up in shrub or tree

Hedge Trimmer – create smooth topiary surface in small-leaved evergreen shrubs

Traditional Butterfly Bonsai Shear – fine cuts that redirect branching in herbaceous perennials, small shrubs

Bonsai Convex Cutter – remove branch at base, leaving smooth cut that readily heals over without stubs or scarring

Sharpening File – essential to have sharp pruning tools

Alcohol or 10% Bleach Solution – sanitation between cuts to prevent spread of disease

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, December 3

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Digging Tools Needed

Pick -- useful for breaking through hardpan

Round point, long-handled Garden Shovel – primary digging tool for all-around general digging

Flat Garden Spade – for edging and outlining

Spading Fork – flat tines for digging, separating  

Hand Trowel – small handtool for planting bulbs, annuals, veggies, groundcovers

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, November 26

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Backfilling the Planting Hole

The main reason for digging a wide planting hole is so we have plenty of soil that can be “fluffed up” or turned and aerated for backfilling around the root system or root ball. 

Where formerly a variety of organic materials were added to the backfill soil, Crabapple LandscapExperts follow current agricultural research recommendations for best practices and simply disturb an area two to three times the diameter of the root ball in width to produce a zone of well-aerated native soil that plant roots readily grow into in the month or two following planting.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, November 19

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Planting Container-Grown Large Trees and Shrubs

CrabappleLandscapExperts check the root systems of container-grown trees and shrubs Before we plant a tree that has been grown in a pot, we make sure that no major roots are circling or “girdling” the trunk.

This problem could eventually kill the tree. As tree and roots continue to enlarge in diameter, the root would eventually cut off the circulation (called translocation in plants) restricting the upward flow of nutrients and water from the roots and the downward flow of elaborated carbohydrates from photosynthesizing leaves.

If girdling roots are found, we do not purchase that tree, and in pre-existing planting we cut through to eliminate the problem.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, November 12

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Trees and Shrubs in Fiber Pots

Fiber pots are supposed to allow plant roots to grow through the sides and biodegrade. However, Crabapple LandscapExperts know that if any margin of the pot protrudes above ground, it can serve to “wick” moisture out of the surrounding soil, leaving the fiber pot dry and inpenetrable, thereby drying the root ball further.

Fiber pots (often made of peat or coir) are best removed if the roots have not begun to grow through the walls. If roots are growing into the fibrous pot, we use our best judgment whether to strip off the side walls or to remove the top part of the pot down to the soil ball. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, November 5

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Prepping Large Woody Ornamentals for Planting

When large trees or shrubs are needed in a landscape renovation, Crabapple LandscapExperts select them as field-grown specimens in-ground at a tree nursery to ensure our clients get the healthiest plants with the prettiest branching habits. These are typically mechanically dug with a large root ball. 

To maintain the root ball and keep it from splitting during transport, the nursery wraps it with burlap, ties it with twine that is secured with nails or pins, and places it in a wire basket.

 

What is good for transporting, however, is not good for growth after planting.To prevent a check in growth or serious root deformation our LandscapExperts Team: 

• Removes the slow-to-biodegrade wire basket (or cuts it apart if it is to remain in the hole)
• Cuts the twine circling the trunk
• Pulls out the nails or pins 
• Removes the burlap covering the root ball (in particular, any portion of the burlap that protrudes above ground must be removed, so it does not act as a wick and pull water out of the ground, and most certainly if the burlap is synthetic and not natural fiber)

This practice ensures the roots will have the easiest time of becoming established, without physical impediment to root growth. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, October 29

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Mechanized Digging of Planting Holes

Sometimes extra-large trees or shrubs are called for in a landscape renovation, and mechanized equipment is the most efficient way to move them.

In the case of large Balled-and-Burlapped woodies in wire baskets, a tree spade, auger or back hoe is required to move them into position and to dig the holes.

Crabapple LandscapExperts know that a planting hole with “glazed” or slickly-smooth sides (common where the clay content is high)

• can act like an in-ground container, physically preventing the roots from growing into the surrounding soil. 
• can fill up with water. Since plant roots need oxygen as well as water, this can result in plant root suffocation or disease.

To prevent this “bathtub” like phenomenon, once the planting holes are mechanically dug our LandscapExperts rough up the sides  prior to backfilling, making perpendicular cuts that promote root penetration and water drainage into the surrounding soil. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, October 22

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Best Practices: Planting High vs. Digging Too Deep

CrabappleLandscapExperts recommend “planting high” in heavy soils that drain poorly. This means we dig only a shallow hole for woody ornamentals, allowing the top of the root ball to be left exposed above the surface of the surrounding soil. The top portion (about 1/3 of the overall height) of the root ball is then protected with a cover of 2-3 inches of ground pine bark or other good, organic mulch. This keeps the exposed portion from drying out while the roots become established in the aerated top soil.

CrabappleLandscapExperts understand that digging the hole deeper than the height of the root ball is poor practice. As the disturbed or “fluffed up” soil settles and compacts, a too-deep hole can result in the root ball sinking below the level of the surrounding ground. This settling can lead to root suffocation or decay if water collects over and around the roots, or if soil washes in to bury the roots, depriving them of oxygen.  

Planting High is an excellent practice for the beautiful, fragrant native azaleas that enliven Southern landscapes in April in shades of yellow, gold, apricot, orange, peach and pink. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, October 15

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Proper Planting Techniques- the Planting Hole

Recent horticultural research indicated that the ways trees and woodies are planted today has changed from old timey planting practices, and CrabappleLandscapExperts are on top of the recommendations.

The first major change is the size and shape of the planting hole. Recommendations now call for a wider and shallower hole that will direct a more lateral and shallow root spread than in the old days.

In general, Crabapple LandscapExperts dig the hole to a diameter of 2 to 3 times the root ball.

For example, a woody ornamental planted in a 3 gallon pot has a root ball of about 12 inches x 12 inches by 12 inches (more nearly a cylinder shape) . We dig the hole 12 inches deep, so the bottom of the pot rests on the bottom or the hole. 

However, we dig the hole 24 to 36 inches wide—about the size of a child’s toy, the hula hoop. This ensures the roots will find it easy going as they travel horizontally in the disturbed or "fluffed up" soil at the optimal location within the top 12 to 18 inches from the surface where water and nutrients are mainly applied.  

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, Oct. 8

We Inspect Container-Grown Plants BEFORE We Buy

When thinking of buying any type of plant, whether an annual, perennial or woody ornamental, we make sure the roots are not pot-bound and circling before purchasing. Just like we check the condition and branching of the top of the plant, we also turn the plant upside down and knock it out of the nursery container to examine the roots. Many homeowners reps and property managers overlook this crucial step.

If a plant has been left in the same container too long, sometimes the root system gets hopelessly "girdled: or tangled inside the pot. Then it is difficult to tease the root ball apart and ensure the roots grow out in a circle into the surrounding soil. It is essential to prevent them from continuing to circle around and around even after planting by scoring or cutting into the root ball or otherwise disturbing the roots.

You can rely on your Crabapple LandscapExperts Team. We chooses healthy plants with an abundance of firm white roots but some empty soil as well, ready to leap into growth with good planting and follow-up watering.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, Oct. 1

Executing a Landscape Renovation

How Important are Plant Guarantees?

Some of Crabapple's nursery suppliers guarantee plants while others feel that once a plant leaves the premises, it is no longer their responsibility. A few retailers unconditionally offer a set-time guarantee on all plants they sell, but require the purchasing records and charge retail prices.

The key to the survival and thriving of any new landscape is to discuss with your Crabapple Rep how new shrubs, trees, flowers and turf planted on the properties you manage will be cared for during their establishment. Regular watering is essential while plant roots are growing into the surrounding soil. This can be done via return visits or by setting up drip irrigation on a timed basis. We can provide the best conditions for optimal survival of newly installed landscapes; just give us a buzzzz 770-740-9739 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, September 24

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Judging Quality

Crabapple’s reputable local wholesalers are the source of the super-charged plants that the LandscapExperts Team brings to your landscape.

• Plants are healthy, with normal leaf size and good green color; plump, firm buds; adequate numbers of flowers/fruits for size and age
• Plants are insect- and disease-free
• Container grown pots are filled with healthy white roots, but roots do not circle the pots
• The nursery should be clean and neat
• Plants awaiting sale are shaded if needed, evenly watered, and have no broken limbs
• Plants are grouped by variety and size  

We strive to bring you the very best plants for your new design!

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, September 17

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Successful Transplanting

Two critical factors when moving plants:

1. The right time of year relative to their growth cycles,  The best time to move plants is when they are dormant. Midwinter in metro-Atlanta.
2. Dig and take as much of the root system as possible, above all do not allow it to crack in half. Root prune the plant a few months ahead of time roots will regenerate in place, and be more compact when the tree is actually moved. Crabapple LandscapExperts take as much of the root system as can be dragged or lifted and take care that the root ball does not split.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, September 10

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Add Permanent Landscape Elements

Phase 2 of any landscape renovation is adding the hardscaping before any new plants are installed.

• Grading
• Drainage
• Paving and Decking are forms of ground cover

Refer to the detailed plan that Crabapple LandscapExperts provides. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, September 3

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Renew Existing Landscape Elements

The LandscapExperts Team will pamper existing landscape plants that are able to be saved and that will contribute to the renovated design.  

• Overgrown trees and shrubs are pruned or limbed up.
• Rejuvenation pruning can be practiced on overgrown deciduous shrubs, retaining new stems and removing the largest, heaviest old ones
• Corrective tree pruning includes removal of dead, broken or crossing branches, and correcting narrow crotch angles
• Groundcovers can be renewed by severely cutting back or even mowing, then re-spacing the remaining plants
• Perennials are divided and reset, with the oldest inner parts of the clump discarded
• Plants are also treated for disease and insect problems if they exist 
• Add new flowering bulbs and annuals

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, August 27

Executing a Landscape Renovation

Removal of Existing Plants and Shrubs

Step one in any renovation is the demolition. 

• In landscaping, this refers to removing plants that cannot be salvaged or those in the way of paving and cannot be transplanted to another locale.
• Some woody ornamentals can be cut off at ground level, but others will resprout and so must be dug out. 
• Your LandscapExperts Team keep in mind that as one plant is dug up, the roots may be entwined with neighboring root systems, and we work to preserve the remaining shrubs.
• For large trees, we call in our experienced Arborists to remove them safely. Firewood and wood chips are often salvageable. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, August 20

Stretching Your Landscape Budget

CrabappleLandscapExperts are masters of the many ways to stretch your landscape budget, but we never sacrifice quality for price. 

• We select the smallest-sized plants, so long as they achieve our design objectives and are effective
• Bare-root plants are more economical and grow more quickly, if the renovation schedule and the calendar allows (narrow window of opportunity in late winter)
• Use inexpensive annuals as fillers while slower-growing shrubs and trees are getting established
• Use more common, less expensive plants as background, and new introductions as specimens
• Space ground covers with an eye to mature size rather than immediate impact 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, August 13

Understanding Plant Sizes

American Standard for Nursery Stock

This is a set of guidelines for growers and wholesale nurseries that helps them to standardize the sizing and description of trees, shrubs, roses, bulbs and plant material. Using these measurements ensures that a 3-gallon or a 3-inch caliper plant will be similar in size across nurseries. As well, they can assign different grades to indicate the quality of plants. Crabapple LandscapExperts choose large, robust plants for your installations.  .

Trees

Trees are graded by height, pot size, or if field-grown, larger sizes are graded in caliper inches (diameter of the trunk at breast height or DBH)

Shrubs

Shrubs are graded by height or pot size. Each type of shrub has standard measurements (low spreading, tall upright) 

Roses

Roses are graded by the number of canes

Bulbs

Bulbs are graded by circumference

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, August 6

Renovation Calendar

Let Crabapple LandscapEXPERTS summarize your renovation plans

Phase 1

Pamper plants that will stay in place with optimum water and fertilizing

Transplant existing plants to new locations

Remove plants that cannot be saved, rejuvenated or relocated

Phase 2

Install hardscaping (paving, fencing, arbors, decks, walls)

Phase 3

Select and install new plants

Renovate the lawn and spruce up ground cover areas

Add flowers

Mulch to finish

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, July 30

Establish a Time Frame for your Landscape Project

Crabapple can help you:

• Determine scope of work
• List individual sections
• Create materials list and price out 
• Work backward from finish date to allow enough time 
• Build in rain delays 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, July 23

Characteristics of Good Trees

• Hardiness
• Tolerance of urban conditions: air pollution, vandalism, neglect, compacted soil,
• Disease and insect resistance
• Low maintenance
• Ability to grow in microclimate
• Non poisonous
• Flower color is suitable to surrounding buildings
• Limited litter problems
• Seasonal interest
• Long-lived ( oaks 200 years, crabapples and dogwoods 30 years)
• Mid-height, stature trees not overly tall
• Deep roots to prevent buckling sidewalks
• Branches with wide crotch angles to prevent splitting
• Open crowns to allow light to penetrate ornamentals beneath

Let your Crabapple Rep choose a good tree for your landscape!

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, July 16

Decrease future maintenance for future

• Low-maintenance plants
• Match plant selection to conditions
• Correct drainage, eliminate compaction
• Match mature height and with of plants to space
• Use curved lines for easy maintenance
• Add perennials instead of only annuals
• Install state of the art irrigation systems with water economy timers, rain sensors
• Use fencing and plant material together for privacy and screening

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, July 9

Visualizing the Dream of a New Landscape

Existing landscape and future landscape

Let Crabapple LandscapExperts help you envision the changes

• with Overlays
• CAD mockups

Ask your Rep for some new ideas! 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, July 2

Edible Landscaping Dual-Function plants; both ornamental and edible

Groundcover – strawberries, peanuts

Ornamental deciduous shrubs – blueberries, pomegranates

Fruit and Nut trees- useful as shade trees; self-pollinating for best fruit production

Annual vines-  pole beans, scarlet runner beans, New Zealand spinach
Perennial vines- grapes, kiwi fruit

Annual flowers- sunflowers, calendula, nasturtiums, violas  

Vegetables - asparagus turns into brushy filler among perennials 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, June 25

Climate control! Energy Conservation through Strategic Landscaping

• Ornamental Plants can serve to modify the environment where they are placed
• Plant large deciduous shade trees on the south, southwest and west sides of the structures: homes patios decks, outdoor recreation and entertaining areas for shade
• Plant deciduous vines on supports or trellises against walls to the south, southwest and west sides to again provide shade in summer and privacy
• Plant evergreen or deciduous shrubs to shade air conditioning units
• Plant evergreens close to structures on the north or north west, northeast sides to create an insulating dead air space and insulate against winter winds
• Plant staggered, double rows of tall evergreen shrubs or trees on the north side of the house to block or divert winter wind
• Plant tree and shrub groupings to direct the wind in desireable directions, aqllowing cold air to settle downhill when possible
• Plant trees and shrubs to intercept light and heat from light-colored, paved surfaces 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week June 18

Analyze the Landscape for Needs and Desires

How functional is he landscape is for all residents?

Combine similar functions

Entertaining

Recreation

Gardening

Storage for extra vehicles, trailers, campers and boats

Parking pad that can double as a sports area

Storage for trash, recycling and firewood

Privacy 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week June 11

Steps in Renovation and Design

Let Crabapple LandscapExperts analyze your landscape and custom-design a renovation plan or design solution for the properties you manage.

First, we create a scale drawing on graph paper

• Start with the city plat
• Check with original builder or Homeowners Association for a copy of the blueprints and surveys
• Measure the property boundaries, consulting the legal descriptions
• Measure the external dimensions of the building(s)
• Note landscape details, trees, fences, walkways, entrances, gates, parking, and so forth
• Locate where downspouts and electrical outlets and air conditioning units, where utilities enter the building(s)(above or below ground) and location of meters
• Septic tanks
• Wells
• Irrigation systems
• Water lines
• Locate the drives, walks, parking and so forth according to the legal description
• Pools, dog pens, walls, fences, walls, play equipment, clothes lines, vegetable gardens, compost piles

Crabapple does this inventory for your properties to begin the process.

LandscapExpert Tip of the Week, June 4, 2012

Factors Contributing to Landscape Decline: Chemical Abuse

An unseen killer of trees and landscape plants is attributed to the misuse of chemicals.

• Salt or de-icing chemicals seep into the ground water, killing roots
• Inorganic Fertilizers, applied at too high rates, can also burn roots and injure landscape plants through reverse osmosis
• Chemical herbicides used on weeds can adversely affect landscape shrubs and trees
• Repeated pets abuse can burn landscape plantings by urinating on shrubs or beside trees
• Acid rain
• Air pollutants
• Underground gas leaks 
• Above-ground dumping of solvents in the vicinity of plant roots

To help prevent this chemical misuse, CrabappleLandscapExperts always encourage the safe and proper application and disposal of all chemicals. Call your Crabapple Rep if you have questions, or need a hand.   

LandscapExpert Tip of the Week, June 4, 2012

Factors Contributing to Landscape Decline: Plant Abuse

For years we’ve heard the phrase, “Plants are like people!” Landscape plants and particularly trees in public locations are often wounded and vandalized. Some of this is malicious, like the $43K worth of unspeakable vandalism recently at the Seattle public arboretum.  

Other abuse is inadvertent, but opens wounds and gives disease organisms an entry:

• Trees are used as posts and eventually girdled
• Signs are nailed to trunks
• Initials are carved in trunks  
• Lawn Mowers and string trimmers can damage bark (Crabapple LandscapExperts call this “lawnmower blight” with tongue in cheek)
• Cars hit trees scraping both trunk and car

 These are just a few of the plant abuse factors that contribute to landscape decline. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, May 21, 2012

Factors Contributing to Landscape Decline: Diminished Water, Light + Space

Over time, landscape plants can overgrow their spaces, and can feel the competition pressure from surrounding plants for physical space, light, nutrients, water; all essential elements required for plant health.

• Hedges or shrubs once branched all the way to the ground may loose branches that were shaded out
• Flowers that once enveloped a shrub may be limited to the upper and outer ends of the branches. 
• Some landscape plants are more vigorous than others, and will out-compete for scarce resources such as light or moisture
• Still others can lose the competition game because they were not originally selected for the location, or perhaps the conditions have changed (increasing shade is a given).

Your Crabapple LandscapExperts Team can sort this type of landscape decline out for you, and give the properties you manage new curb appeal.

LandscapExpert Tip of the Week, May 14, 2012

Early Recognition of Landscape Pests and Diseases

Without thorough monitoring by your CrabappleLandscapExperts Team, by the time property managers or Homeowners Associations realize there is a problem, the plants are disfigured or too damaged to be saved.

• Sometimes a problem is misidentified or misdiagnosed and allowed to progress beyond repair
• Physiological damage to landscape plants occurs as the result of environmental causes like air pollution, poor drainage, compacted soil or drought
• Other damage can be caused by living pests such as deer, chipmunks or voles that damage the landscape plants

Crabapple can pin the blame on the correct pathogen and institute the right corrective regimen. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, May 7, 2012

Factors Contributing to Landscape Decline: Pests + Diseases

A good way to prevent or lessen the effects of landscape plant problems is with our routine monitoring. Crabapple LandscapExperts Team takes a few minutes every other week or so to monitor the landscapes we service for insect and disease problems. In this way we reduce the decline of the landscape plants of our clients.    

If their presence is detected early before pests become widespread or have inflicted much damage, they are much more easily suppressed.

LandscapExpert Tip of the Week, April 30

Damage Due to Weather or Natural Disaster

A variety of natural disasters, ranging from hail to high winds, tornadoes, ice breakage, lightening strikes, flooding or split trunks, can occur suddenly to landscapes in good health.

Although little can be done to protect plants from natural occurrences, quick corrective action will be taken by Crabapple LandscapExperts. Uprooted plants can be replanted or removed, broken limbs can be properly pruned flush, and saturated or eroded soils can be restored. Set-up a contract with the responsive folks on the Crabapple LandscapExperts Team before hand.  

LandscapExpert Tip of the Week, April 23

Reaction to Changes in the Landscape

If additional construction changes are planned for an existing landscape, Crabapple Landscape Experts can help property managers minimize potential damage to the landscape. Plants can be moved, pruned back, or in some cases, even removed prior to the construction.

Changes occurring on neighboring properties, little or no control over the results may be possible, but even then, our LandscapExperts Team can offer suggestions.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, April 16, 2012

Changes in the Landscape

A landscape is not static, but is ever-evolving. Trees grow larger and create more shade; flowering shrubs that once bloomed profusely in sun may fail to bloom; an area that’s used for many years as a path becomes devoid of vegetation due to soil compaction, and so forth. Additional construction such as pools, storage buildings, patios, fences, gates, sidewalks can affect the landscape plants.

When a homeowner association plans to make a change that could impact the landscape, Crabapple LandscapExperts can minimize injury to existing plants.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, April 9

First Aid for Repairing Recent Tree Wounds

If the bark has been newly peeled away from the trunk, the LandscapExperts immediately push it back in place and wrap or securely tie it so it can “knit” the tissues back together.

If the wound is a little older and the bark and wood tissues have dried, we carefully pare away the ragged edges leaving a smooth edge, easier for the tree to callus over so that compartmentalization can proceed. (Wound paint nor sealer is not recommended.)

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, April 2

Wounds Disrupt the Flow of Water and Nutrients

When a tree trunk is injured, the flow of carbohydrates and elaborated sugars from the leaves downward, and the flow of water and nutrients from the roots upward is disrupted. Conductive tissues are called the phloem. The weakened root system will have a reduced ability to support the tree, and can begin a spiral of decline. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, March 26

Success of Tree Wound Healing Depends on Variables

Some trees are more successful at walling off or compartmentalizing wounds to their trunk or limbs, and this depends on the species of tree, its age, health and vigor. Some trees (green ash, sweet gum) are strong compartmentalizers and can recover from wounds. Other species (river birch, honey locust) are weak compartmentalizers and can be killed if injured a few times.

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, March 19

Trees Callus Over Open Wounds

Trees don’t heal wounds like people do; instead they grow callus cells and attempt to wall- off or compartmentalize the damage. This process, known as closure, allows the tree to build layers of cells around the wound that blocks the entry of insects and disease. "Tree would paint" and sealer interferes with this natural process. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, March 12

Curing "Lawnmower Blight"

Crabapple LandscapExperts recommend the use of mulch rings (or hardscape edging and mulch) around the base of tender trunks of newly planted or young trees and tree-form shrubs. The mulch that surrounds the trunks keeps a physical distance between the trunks and lawnmowers, string trimmers and edgers. This provides a level of safety from equipment that can accidentally gouge holes or strip away bark, creating an entry point for insects and disease. 

LandscapExperts Tip of the Week, March 5

What are the results of the bad practice of Topping* a tree?

If a tree has been subjected to the unfortunate practice of “Topping” many problems result.

• Large limbs are stubbed off, rendering the tree ruined and unsightly 
• entry ports for insects and diseases are created 
• masses of vigorous, upright “water sprouts” emerge from the stubs and they are not structurally sound, as normal branching would be 
• a large quantity of photosynthesizing leaves are removed, resulting in too little photosynthesis for the remaining root system 
• leaf cover that shades the trunk is removed  and buds that would form a normal branching pattern are eliminated 
• Ultimately, Crabapple LandscapExperts may advise that the topped tree is better removed

(Last week Crabapple explained the bad practice of  topping .